Lake Powell, Arizona
TRAVEL ROUTE: Monument Valley - US 163 - US 160 - SR 98 - US 89 - Lake Powell
September 22, 2006 — After leaving Monument Valley, we had to backtrack on US 163 for 25 miles to Kayenta and then on US 160 for another 30 miles to get to our turnoff on State Route (SR) 98, which would take us to our next stop near Lake Powell. Since we'd already covered part of the route that morning, coming up from Cameron in the rain, and a glance at the map didn't indicate anything of particular interest on SR 98, either, we settled down for a couple of hours of good-weather driving with our visual sensors on 'Pause.'
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But, just a few miles south of Monument Valley, there stands something so imposing and so landscape-dominating, even compared to what we had just seen, that we had to stop for a while. Oh, we'd noticed it when we passed by earlier, but in the gray mist, it hadn't had the same effect on us as it did, now. This imposing thing is called Agathla Peak or El Capitan, locally, and 'Aghaa'lá or "much wool" in the Navajo language - there are plenty of sheep grazing hereabouts to make that meaning easily believable.
Depending upon whose estimate you believe, this hunk of volcanic rock, basalt, rises either 1500 or 1700 feet above the surrounding plain and, as such, commands the view for miles around. I had seen an image of this peak in a photographic portfolio and decided I wanted to see it as a matter of curiosity, since I knew we were scheduled to pass by it on the way to Monument Valley. But, I had no idea that it would be a thing of such rugged authority and craggy fascination, until we saw it after the storm clouds had cleared. Many visitors to Monument Valley approach from and leave to the north and, therefore, miss this sight, but it is well worth the 8 mile detour to spend a few moments in its shadow.
With this one unexpected sight out of the way, we thought we could now go back on visual cruise control. SR 98 crosses the Kaibito Plateau, a vast, barren tableland which lifts up the western portion of the Navajo Reservation. It rises to a maximum elevation of about 6800 ft. ASL and drops to about 3700 ft. ASL at Lake Powell. Along our way, it was interesting to watch the land and plant forms changing from hills of sand to slickrock cliffs to weird vertical formations of sandstone to sage brush and goldenrod fields to scrub pine forests, all growing out of the rich, red soil common to the area. This was foreground to the massive White Mesa to our south and 10,000 ft. Navajo Peak and the distant canyons of Utah 20 miles to our north. Add to this a wide, smooth road, brilliant blue sky, sparkling sunshine, some wispy white clouds and what we'd originally thought would be a boring ride on SR 98 turned out, instead, to be a real visual treat.
As the road descended from the plateau, we were better able to visualize the subtle colors and dramatic layout of the landscape around Glen Canyon and Lake Powell. The triple black smokestacks of the Navajo Power Station, a few miles east of Page, provided a strong, graphic element that stood in sharp, industrial contrast to the chiseled rock of the natural surroundings - but, even so, it seemed, somehow, to enhance and even complete the picture.
Midway through our descent, we caught our first glimpse of Lake Powell and the sheer rock walls of Glen Canyon that contain it. The rays of the late afternoon sun coming through the wind-driven clouds produced a most interesting interplay of light and dark, a chiaroscuro-in-motion effect, on the landscape. As we entered the town of Page, we lost sight of the lake and canyons, but would regain both, soon, to our joy and amazement.
But, to digress a moment, across from the Navajo Power Station is the parking lot for Antelope Canyon, one of the most dramatic and photogenic of the many slot canyons in the American west. It had been high on my list of must-visit-if-ever-in-the-neighborhood places. Even though it was fairly late in the afternoon, and almost by definition, slot canyons are best illuminated when the sun is overhead, I had hoped to be able to sneak in a visit. The lot was open, but there were no cars. Unfortunately, the canyon was 'closed' for the day.
Lake Powell is not a natural body of water, but was created by backing up the waters of the Colorado River into Glen Canyon behind Glen Canyon Dam in the 1960's (much like Hoover Dam and Lake Mead). The now-well-established town of Page was built in the late 1950's to house and provision the dam workers. There was a good bit of resistance to the dam project, mainly from environmentalists and outdoor enthusiasts who feared that their beloved canyon was being taken from them (they were right). Aside from the 1.3 billion watts of electricity that the power plant produces, the newly-formed lake and Glen Canyon National Recreation Area have opened up recreational and scenic opportunities and created many jobs that never existed before.
Was it worth it? Impossible for me to say, the calculus is far too difficult. Although I never had the privilege of seeing an empty Glen Canyon (some ardent supporters contend that it even rivaled Grand Canyon), I can say with absolute assurance that it would've had to have been beyond spectacular to equal, let alone surpass what is there, now.
We stayed at Wahweap Marina, a few miles west of Page and a few hundred yards from the shores of Lake Powell. One of the exquisite pleasures of my life has been to sit on our porch in perfect weather, sipping chardonnay, overlooking water-filled Glen Canyon and being mesmerized by the changing colors of the sunset. $190 bucks a night. Priceless.
Next Stop: The Road to Zion
Travel to One of These Other Fascinating Locations:
Sedona, AZ
Grand Canyon, AZ
Monument Valley, UT
Lake Powell, AZ
Zion NP, UT
Rhyolite, NV
And, Coming Very Soon...
Death Valley NP, CA
US 395 & Owens Valley, CA
Mono Lake, CA
Bodie, CA
Yosemite NP, CA
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